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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.